Hikayat 3Tawla
(STORIES ON THE TABLE)
From ancient board games to video games, it could be said that gaming is a part of being alive. Games have united people throughout history, providing a platform for cultural exchange and community building. The act of playing exists outside the boundaries of civilized societies, and studies have shown that animals and children who play are better suited to cope with life’s challenges and uncertainties in the future. Playfulness has been linked to creative problem-solving, self-control, and emotional stability. In a time when there seem to be infinite problems to be solved, can we imagine a world made better through play?
Hikayat 3Tawla is a playful response to The Mashrabiya Project, an exhibition displayed at The Center for Art in Wood, where the idea of the mashrabiya (an architectural screening element) was explored through art and design in contemporary life. To engage with the Philadelphia community, The Center for Art in Wood hosted several Tawla game nights (commonly known as Backgammon or Shesh Besh).
Inspired by this effort, Hikayat 3Tawla displays game boards on loan from people in the Philadelphia area and their stories about games. We maintain that playing games is a great way to bring people from different backgrounds together, telling stories and building bridges over a cup of tea and some good-natured competition.
Hikayat 3Tawley focuses on two game board types - Backgammon and Checkerboard. We hope you will enjoy learning a bit about how these games influenced and were influenced by Arab culture. We encourage you to bring a friend, stay a minute, and play.
Hikayat 3Tawla was on display at Al-Bustan Seeds of Culture in July & August of 2023.
Scroll down to read the stories…
THE STORIES
Maureen
Philadelphia, PA
My sister came to Europe at the end of my semester abroad to travel with me for three weeks. After making our way through Italy, we ended up in Brindisi with tickets for the 8-hour ferry ride to Greece. To save money, we opted not to purchase seats, thinking we would be fine sleeping on deck. It gets cold in the middle of the night - in the middle of the Adriatic - even in July!
By dawn, when we heard the recorded voice announcing that we were docking in Corfu, we had taken everything out of our backpacks to cover up. We spent the following day on the beach soaking up the sun. And then, it was time for the brief sunset ferry to the mainland.
On this ferry, we met, to our young eyes, the most handsome man in the world - Michel from North Africa. He was also planning to travel on the overnight bus to Athens, so we walked to the bus depot and waited together until it was time to board.
There was a mad rush - whole families, people with chickens in cages, Greek soldiers - which pushed the three of us to the end of the line. By the time we climbed onto the bus with our backpacks, all the seats were taken. The bus driver calmly shrugged at our dismay and handed us each a small folding stool.
What to do? Sit in the aisle facing each other and play backgammon on my tiny magnetic set! We played for hours until sometime after midnight when the bus pulled off the dark road and up to a brightly lit taverna. Everyone filed off the bus and, as was the Greek custom, paraded through the kitchen to choose our meal. Then, outside to the long picnic tables and live music.
No one seemed in a hurry to get back on the bus (which was fine with us!). There was coffee to savor, baklava to taste, and more ouzo. A few of the soldiers got up and danced for us, punctuating their steps by taking the china plates off the table and crashing them to break on the ground.
Eventually, it was time to return to the bus. Now, the soldiers offered my sister and me their seats, and we were able to sleep a little.
At about four a.m., the bus reached Athens, and all the people went their ways in the dark morning. With hours to kill before the youth hostel would open, Michel led us to a city park and found three adjacent benches on which we could sleep.
When dawn came and the birds woke us, we sat up and looked around. Our guardian angel Michel, who had kept us safe through the night, was gone...
Kristina
North Wales, PA
My family went to Bushkill Falls and Winona 5 Falls when I was six years old. I remember being allowed to pick one thing from the souvenir shop. I always loved the cedar knick-knacks, and I picked out this Checkers Trinket box, which originally came with playing pieces. The pieces were somehow lost pretty early on, and my Dad improvised using fancy Martini Olive picks shaped like swords and bakery cupcake picks from Halloween. When I rediscovered this game in my parent’s house while moving them two years ago, the olive picks were still in the box! (I kept the vintage 1960s witch cupcake topper.) I remember my Dad, Grandfather, and siblings playing checkers with me on this box, and I took it with me on vacations and car trips. I was never taught chess until I was an adult, so I never played chess.
The box has been in our family for 56 years, and I hope someone can find playing pieces to make it complete.
As a side note, I took my adult daughter to Bushkill Falls a couple of years ago and was surprised to see how small they are. Either they shrunk, or I grew! We tried to find Winona 5 Falls, but it was a private road, and we could not get in. I took our picture in front of the big stuffed bear statue at the Bushkill entrance that I remember doing as a child.
I also remember after hiking the falls in the ‘60s, you would return to your car to find the staff had affixed bumper stickers advertising the falls. I don’t know why, but I thought that was pretty amazing as a kid and loved it on our new, light blue Ford Country Squire. I’m sure my dad did not feel the same.
Bayley
Philadelphia, PA
I found the piece at an antique shop in New Jersey a year or so ago with my boyfriend. I was a gift to me because I love board and strategy games so much, especially chess. We used to play together when he would come over for date nights. We’d drink wine and sit on the floor of my living room playing one another for hours. Sadly, about two months ago he broke things off between us. I used to love the table but now the memories aren’t as happy with it as they once were. We’d been dating on and off for five years and I still think he’s a good person but now it’s time for me to move on. Knowing that the game will become part of an art exhibit makes me happy; so, thank you for that! It’s giving a happy end to the table’s story!
Fish
Atlanta, GA
I could drawl on at this point to no end and I have other stories, but I think I wanted to talk about my GF Sinasi. So, I know it was supposed to be about the game. In a nutshell, it is order, chaos, order for me. Tavla became a meditation and a way to read energy. In Turkey many games of chance are also “fal” or “fortune” telling. Tavla can be shallow as checkers or as deep as chess. On a personal note, I’m from a divisive Muslim/ Jewish background. This makes other Jewish and Muslim people uncomfortable around me. I beat them all at Tavla, no talking necessary.
Sorry, I REALLY didn’t mean to procrastinate! Somehow, days used to be longer. When the days were longer, I spent many with my Dede, testing our fortunes by the Zar; our character and wit at odds across the tavla…BACKGAMON
I can say this time was transformative. Our games became a bridge between language, age, location. With more facets in the. Game and more time to learn about not just who my grandfather was, but how he thought. Let me tell you, he thought quite A LOT about numbers! Enough so that he NEVER let me win a match. I assure you; I’ve won some matches.
My Dede is gone, with him went the time to play with fortune. When I get the chance to play tavla now I never miss an opportunity to give it his style. Never wavering, methodical, without haste. So thoughtful, yet merciless; someone had to win so he did. Always taking the win yet Always giving the lesson with love. Winning and losing both came from the heart. Everything is in us.
Dottie
Lambertville, NJ
I can’t give you a lot of info about the set. It belonged to my parents, and both have passed. They liked to play cards and would have card parties on Saturday nights. I think this was set up at these parties along with a large puzzle if someone wanted a break from playing cards. My mom would cook, and everyone would eat. I believe the set was in use until the 70s, but I can’t be sure because all who came to the parties are now gone.
I think my parents also taught my nephews how to play. They are in their 50s now. I looked up the set and found that it is considered very rare – I guess because it is glass. My parents took care of things and taught us to do the same. I’m in my late 70s myself, and I’m the youngest.
Trish
Wyncote, PA
No exciting story but it was purchased in the 1980s to take on vacation. A friend brought backgammon to a weekend in the mountains and we had so much fun playing it (when not hiking) that I bought it for our family. I played it with my children and friends on vacations to Nantucket and the Jersey Shore.
Ali
Ardmore, PA
Two guys were playing “tawla” at a cafe on the River Tigress in Baghdad on a summer night. They were both champions and were playing for a big wager.
It was the endgame. One had only two pieces on the 1 & 2 places, so he wins at any dice throw. The other one had four pieces on the six place and needed two sixes only to win, and it was his turn. He said that it was too stressful and asked to postpone the endgame to the next night.
The next night everybody was at the cafe to watch… It was so quiet, and he was hoping for a miracle. He threw the dice, and to the astonishment of everyone, he got double six… he shouted, closed the tawla, and threw it into River Tigers. He won the bet. And everyone in Baghdad was talking about the miracle for decades.
When he was dying, he confessed that he had carved a pair of dice with six on all sides. He secretly changed the dice, and of course, the throw would be double six, and pretended he was overwhelmed and closed it and threw it in the river.
Marie
Warrington, PA
This game was given to me when I was first married in 1980. I think my husband and I played it maybe once or twice.
Sara
Philadelphia, PA
Cranking down the roll windows to the kid-safety half-level, hair flying in the wind, legs sticking to the backseat of our wood-paneled Volvo, travel Backgammon gave my brother and me respite from the long summer car rides to our grandparent’s house. The black and red pattern danced as the magnetic pieces snapped in place with a satisfying click. Endless possibilities and endless time, we played together.
Stephane
Philadelphia, PA
We were stuck. We didn’t hear about the evacuation, busy being young and in love. It was Fenwick Island, Delaware, and the storm was upon us. A sweet getaway in a vintage camper that belonged to my now ex-husband’s Grandfather. As it was the early 90’s, we were not as attached to our devices, so all road closures were not known to us. We quickly battened down the hatches and prepared ourselves to wait out the storm. What did we have to pass the time? A backgammon set. I can’t even remember how many times we played, but the power went out, and we continued on through the night by candlelight, and even the next day, not realizing the storm had passed, we were so involved in our competition. We took that backgammon board with us when we left, and it is one of my fondest memories of our time together.
Philadelphia, PA
Lloyd’s Treasures is our small family-run shop of unique antiques & vintage treasures. We search every day to curate some of the most unusual and unique vintage items on Etsy. Carrying just about anything FUN with history, including rare and unusual antiquities, architectural salvage, farmhouse antiques & rustic decorations, garden & yard art, oddities & unique treasures, advertising stuff including signs, boxes & crates, automobilia, breweriana, Americana, primitives, art & sculptures, industrial & steampunk, antique jewelry, silver victorian antiques, and the list goes on. So no matter what you’re doing, from decorating your home, throwing a wedding or party, or making a movie - We got you! - Ben & Soff
Ben and Sofia lent us a bunch of vintage and antique checkerboards. Their wonderful business is named for their late pup, Lloyd.
THE GAMES
Tawla - Backgammon or Shesh Besh
Tawla dates back 5000 years to ancient Mesopotamia. Still arguably one of the most popular games in the region, Arab culture has maintained its love of Tawla since its Ancient Egyptian version began. Tawla is played at home and cafes, and the compact game boxes travel well. It is a game with a healthy balance of luck and skill where competition and conversation make Tawla a perfect way to relax and enjoy time away from the daily grind.
The Royal Game of Ur
A two-player strategy game on a grid. The oldest board still around today is dated to c. 2600 – c. 2400 BCE, making it one of the oldest game boards in the world. The game's rules are like checkers, but the game is also considered a predecessor to the game of Tawla (Backgammon).
The Ancient Arabic Ancestors of Checkers
Versions of Checkers were found as far back as Ancient Egypt. There is evidence that a game called Senet dates to about c. 3100 BCE, but the first unmistakable painting of Senet is from the Third Dynasty tomb of Hesy, who lived from c. 2686 – 2613 BCE. Some historians believe that Senet originated in the Levant, but it is hard to tell who influenced whom when it comes to the game.
Played on another slightly different board, Qirkat is a strategy game that is the predecessor to modern Checkers. It is a game of Moorish origin that migrated to Europe through the invasion of Spain.
Shantranj - Chess in Arab History
The origin of chess is unclear, but a version of the game, Chaturanga, was played over 5000 years ago in India. Around c. 600, there are references to the Persian game of Chatrang, which was later called, Shatranj, the oldest form of modern chess. When the Arabs conquered Persia, the game became popular in the Muslim world and spread to Europe through Al Andalus and Sicily.
During the Islamic Golden Age (8th century to 13th century), there were many written works on the gamer of Shatranj with strategies for opening moves, game problems, the knight’s tour, and more.